Sokyo is tucked at the back of the Star Casino, and represents one of the top Japanese-fusion restaurants Sydney has to offer. It is hatted, and it combines the freshest Japanese ingredients with modern Australian techniques.
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| Oysters, $6 each |
Oysters are great as they are, but even better with Sokyo's sauce (plum wine and lime granita, spicy ponzu), which gently lifts the flavours with salt and citrus without overwhelming the natural deliciousness of the oysters.
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| Seared Scallop, $21 |
The scallops, being quite a delicate flesh, is only gently seared - only enough to bring out a pleasant smokiness. It is paired with nori, cucumber, radish and lime gel, so you have a combination of tender and crunchy.
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| Miso Kingfish, $22 |
This is a delicious dish indeed - the kingfish is made into ceviche in miso, and paired with green chilli and a dome of crispy fried potato. A clear theme is emerging: at Sokyo, they certainly like to play with texture, and it definitely works.
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| Cuttlefish tempura, $19 |
This is hands down the most delicious tempura I have ever had. The tempura batter is so light and airy that there is no hint of oiliness at all, and the cuttlefish is beautifully tender and cooked to perfection.
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| Beef Robata, $15 each skewer; Pork Belly Robata, $13 each skewer |
The beef skewer is made of wagyu tri-tip, caramelised eshallots and drenched in a satisfyingly sweet BBQ teriyaki sauce. The beef is clearly of very high quality - it practically bursts in the mouth with flavour. At $15 per skewer, however, it is really a tad steep.
The pork belly may not be as prized a cut of meat as the beef, but it certainly makes up for it with interesting flavour combination: it is paired with apple and wasabi, with a sprinkling of black salt. Delicious as these are, I have to make the same comment about price here too.
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| Dengakuman, $90 |
The dengakuman is Sokyo's signature dish. It is a miso-glazed toothfish, which is a very prized type of white-fleshed fish with lovely, flakey flesh that is wonderfully milky-textured. The dengakuman dish on the menu is $67 for three pieces, but you can order additional pieces at additional cost, as we have. The skills involved in cooking such a delicate fish to perfection is what makes this dish "worth it".
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| Tai Nori, $20; Tuna Crispy Rice, $20 |
At Sokyo, sushi is always served at the end of the meal. These two turned out to be quite a highlight for me - it is the creative way Sokyo does sushi that both surprised and delighted. The Tai nori is a kingfish sushi paired with shio konbu lime salsa (hence the umami); while the tuna crispy rice, as the name suggests, is a combination of spicy tuna, spicy mayo, and crispy "Yumepirica" rice from Hokkaido. Like other Asian nations, Japan takes its rice seriously. The Yumepirica rice is a culimination of decades of Japanese cultivation and techniques, characterised by high sweetness, high stickiness and low firmness.
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| Salmon Aburi, $20 |
I have heard lots of good things about the salmon aburi sushi at Sokyo, and I wasn't disappointed - salmon belly is seared to medium-rare, so the flesh is almost creamy, with an added hint of smokiness.
Score: 4.5 / 5
Cost: approx $100 pp
Address: Level G, The Darling, The Star, 80 Pyrmont Street, Pyrmont
Website: https://www.star.com.au/sydney/eat-and-drink/signature-dining/sokyo
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