I Don't Eat, I Devour

The various office buildings, old shopping centres and their connecting pathways in Sydney's Chinatown can be a bit of a maze, and hidden in them are charming, authentic eateries frequented by those who really understand a cuisine - and by that I mean, we go for the home-coming feel, not for the atmosphere.  The last time I visited Kowloon Cafe, a Hong Kong style diner, was in 2020 (see my post here ). We picked up a few snacks to go - but this time, I'm here for the full sit down experience.  Pineapple Bread with egg and spam $9.80 One cannot talk about HK style diners without talking about pineapple bread. So-called because the diamond shaped, sweet topping looks like the skin of a pineapple (and not because there are actual pineapples used in the bread), this delicious concoction comes in many varieties. The most traditional involves a warmed pineapple bread with a thick pat of ice-cold butter. The more interesting varieties, such as the one we have before us, may include s...

I have a lot of memories of this place. When I first came to Australia as a child, this  was one of my parents' favourite places to eat to comfort their "Chinese stomachs". There are quite a bit of similarities between the taste profiles of Shanghainese cuisine and Taiwanese cuisine, now that I think about it: both cuisine prefer that lovely umami sweet-savoury and dainty little portions. Even some of our breakfast foods are just variations on a theme.  This, for example. Glutinous rice logs filled with fried dough stick (you tiao), Taiwan-style pork floss (which is a little sweeter and more toasted than its arch-competitor, the Taichang-style pork floss) and preserved raddish. It is filling, comforting and texturally varied (chewy and soft vs crunchy). It is also easily transported, so a perfect breakfast-on-the-go or snack item. The Shanghainese version is shaped like a ball and sometimes replaces the pork floss and preserved raddish with preserved vegetables.  Egg panc...

Chef's Gallery is one of those restaurants that never quite come to the top of my list for favourite restaurants, yet every time I go, I'm always pleasantly surprised by how much I enjoy their food. The best way to describe the cuisine is creative Chinese - not incredibly adventurous, but not quite traditional either. They have an extensive menu serving all sorts of goodies at very reasonable prices.  Egg and spinach tofu, $17.90 Lightly battered and fried, the tofu is wobbly, light, and subtly flavoured with egg and spinach. It is served on a bed of very light, slightly sweet soy sauce which adds a hint of salt without overwhelming the delicacy of the ingredient itself.  Peking Duck Roti, $18.90 Duck pancake is a dish well-beloved by all. The version at Chef's Gallery wraps the Peking duck in roti instead of the traditional thin pancake. Pre-wrapped, there is something to be said of being robbed of the opportunity to make your own pancakes just the way you like them, but C...

China Diner, a restaurant so popular it has three locations, operates along similar vein to the similarly-named China Doll: the game played is modern Chinese-fusion. The décor has some fun, kitchy Chinese elements (wooden panels and giant Warhol-eque portraits of Mao), and mood lighting.  I went there for a friend's birthday, so we enjoyed a banquet menu with a drinks package.  My favourite dish of the evening was this prawn san choi bao with green beans and almonds. The sauce is divine and everything my little Shanghai tastebuds could ask for: salty, umami and slightly sweet. The prawns are bouncy and fresh, and the addition of almond slivers was inspired: not only did it add a textural point of interest, it also gave a nutty, slightly roasted flavour to the dish. In fact, I didn't even bother with the lettuce cup: I just scooped it straight into my mouth.  The crispy calamari with togarashi pepper, garlic and lime is everything you want calamari to be: deep fried to sat...

So, we are all familiar with yum cha. Chinese takeaways may be a cheap and cheery night in, and Chinese restaurants are often where one goes for an affordable, fun, noisy and no-nonsense meal out...but have you had a proper Chinese feast, the kind we reserve for celebrations and special occasions?  Allow me to take you on this incredible culinary journey that involves a private room, multiple courses, distinctively showy ingredients, free-flowing wine and maybe even a touch of kareoke as the night progresses.  Sashimi Plate We ain't messing around here, so let's jump straight in. Lobster is purchased whole at the market rate and cooked in multiple ways. The first course is a sashimi plate displaying the magnificent and venerable crustacean. The texture is gently crunchy (like a jellyfish) and the taste is slightly sweet.  Hot and Sour Soup Unlike casual Chinese meals where the food is in middle of the table, at Chinese feasts, certain courses are served in individual port...

If you don't know the famous Emperor's puffs, which in pre-covid times drew long, snaking lines, that would be something you must immediately rectify in order to call yourself a true Sydney-sider. Pumped out fresh and warm from their custom-machine (no photography allowed!), these custard-filled gems are the cheap eats treats that will bring a smile to your face even in the coldest months.  Annexed to the bakery and the custard puff window is the restaurant itself. Some mornings I would take that route to work, and I would walk past its windows and see the old uncles who gather there each morning, without fail, for breakfast and a yarn. That was how I knew Emperor's Garden is legit. My conviction was further strengthened by a one-star Trip Advisor review titled "Not for European [sic]", in which the hapless travelers complained about their own complete ignorance when it comes to yum cha and gave my friends quite a laugh.  As it turns out, the uncles and aunties wh...

Chef's Gallery serves modern Chinese food that is not quite fusion, but certainly not traditional. The focus is on a gentle palette (no huge spices here) that is suitable for all and creative presentation. Like any reputable Chinese restaurant, its dim sims are made in-house - and if you sit along the glass wall, you can watch the skillful pastry chefs at work, their hands moving so quickly and confidently it's like a choreographed dance.  Steamed dim sim platter, $25.90 This is a platter for those who are new to dim sims as well as veterans who love dim sims and cannot choose between their favourites. Two char sui buns - fluffy, bouncy, with a lovely char sui filling erring on the sweet side; two prawn dumplings - plump and respectable; two vegetable dumplings - more flavourful than you think they'd be and two prawn siu mai - wonderfully flavoured; this is a bit of everything that will keep everyone happy.  Xiao Long Bao, $9.90 How can we discuss dim sim without xiao long ...