Kowloon Cafe
The various office buildings, old shopping centres and their connecting pathways in Sydney's Chinatown can be a bit of a maze, and hidden in them are charming, authentic eateries frequented by those who really understand a cuisine - and by that I mean, we go for the home-coming feel, not for the atmosphere.
One cannot talk about HK style diners without talking about pineapple bread. So-called because the diamond shaped, sweet topping looks like the skin of a pineapple (and not because there are actual pineapples used in the bread), this delicious concoction comes in many varieties. The most traditional involves a warmed pineapple bread with a thick pat of ice-cold butter. The more interesting varieties, such as the one we have before us, may include such additions as fried egg (always with a perfect runny yolk, of course), gently grilled spam, tomatoes, cheese... What we enjoy is that sweet-and-salty combo, which is a key characteristic of the cuisine of my hometown, Shanghai, as well. I suppose that explains why I like it so much.
Pronounced the best dish of the evening by my dining companion, this delicious curry stars seriously melt-in-mouth cuts of beef and has that typical sweetly-salty, gently spicy and almost tomatoey. It is wonderfully flavourful, rich, and satisfying. Highly recommended.
If I had to compare this dish to another beloved and delicious noodle concoction, I would say this is Hong Kong's answer to pho. Soft rice noodles are topped with Kowloon Cafe's signature fish balls - bouncy, delicious numbers made by grinding fish flesh into a paste and then shaped - fish cake and veggies. I can only imagine how comforting this would be in the middle of winter.
By double lemon tea, what is really meant is lemon and lime tea. A refreshing, tart, sweet yet balanced drink perfect for washing away the summer heat. HK style milk tea has a special depth of flavour and distinctive mouthfeel from the use of evaporated milk which is more prominent in the hot version. Both of these are perfect for cutting the richness of the savoury dishes.
Served as though we were about to devour them on the side of the street, the steamed rice roll is a typical HK street food and a favourite at yum cha restaurants. The version served at Kowloon is simple - peanut sauce + hoisin sauce, topped with sesame seeds. Beautifully made, it rather loses some lustre when compared with the other delicious menu items due to its simplicity. I would recommend skipping this dish and trying the versions at yum cha that come with prawns.
The last time I visited Kowloon Cafe, a Hong Kong style diner, was in 2020 (see my post here). We picked up a few snacks to go - but this time, I'm here for the full sit down experience.
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| Pineapple Bread with egg and spam $9.80 |
One cannot talk about HK style diners without talking about pineapple bread. So-called because the diamond shaped, sweet topping looks like the skin of a pineapple (and not because there are actual pineapples used in the bread), this delicious concoction comes in many varieties. The most traditional involves a warmed pineapple bread with a thick pat of ice-cold butter. The more interesting varieties, such as the one we have before us, may include such additions as fried egg (always with a perfect runny yolk, of course), gently grilled spam, tomatoes, cheese... What we enjoy is that sweet-and-salty combo, which is a key characteristic of the cuisine of my hometown, Shanghai, as well. I suppose that explains why I like it so much.
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| Curry Beef Tenderloin with Rice, $15.80 |
Pronounced the best dish of the evening by my dining companion, this delicious curry stars seriously melt-in-mouth cuts of beef and has that typical sweetly-salty, gently spicy and almost tomatoey. It is wonderfully flavourful, rich, and satisfying. Highly recommended.
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| HK Fish balls noodle soup, $15.80 |
If I had to compare this dish to another beloved and delicious noodle concoction, I would say this is Hong Kong's answer to pho. Soft rice noodles are topped with Kowloon Cafe's signature fish balls - bouncy, delicious numbers made by grinding fish flesh into a paste and then shaped - fish cake and veggies. I can only imagine how comforting this would be in the middle of winter.
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| Iced double lemon tea, $8.80 and Iced milk Tea, $6.80 |
By double lemon tea, what is really meant is lemon and lime tea. A refreshing, tart, sweet yet balanced drink perfect for washing away the summer heat. HK style milk tea has a special depth of flavour and distinctive mouthfeel from the use of evaporated milk which is more prominent in the hot version. Both of these are perfect for cutting the richness of the savoury dishes.
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| Mixed sauce steamed rice roll, $7.80 |
Served as though we were about to devour them on the side of the street, the steamed rice roll is a typical HK street food and a favourite at yum cha restaurants. The version served at Kowloon is simple - peanut sauce + hoisin sauce, topped with sesame seeds. Beautifully made, it rather loses some lustre when compared with the other delicious menu items due to its simplicity. I would recommend skipping this dish and trying the versions at yum cha that come with prawns.
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| HK Style siu mai, $6.80 |
Typically, siu mai come with a pork filling, and those are delicious in their own rights. The siu mai at Kowloon comes with fish filling, and I am certainly a fan. Bouncy, savoury, delicate and delicious when drenched in a light sweet soy sauce, it's a moreish one-bite snack.
Score: 3.5/5
Cost: approx $35pp
Address: Shop 7A-9A 421-429, Sussex St, Haymarket
Website: https://www.kowlooncafe.com.au/
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