Emperor's Garden Yum cha

If you don't know the famous Emperor's puffs, which in pre-covid times drew long, snaking lines, that would be something you must immediately rectify in order to call yourself a true Sydney-sider. Pumped out fresh and warm from their custom-machine (no photography allowed!), these custard-filled gems are the cheap eats treats that will bring a smile to your face even in the coldest months. 

Annexed to the bakery and the custard puff window is the restaurant itself. Some mornings I would take that route to work, and I would walk past its windows and see the old uncles who gather there each morning, without fail, for breakfast and a yarn. That was how I knew Emperor's Garden is legit. My conviction was further strengthened by a one-star Trip Advisor review titled "Not for European [sic]", in which the hapless travelers complained about their own complete ignorance when it comes to yum cha and gave my friends quite a laugh. 

As it turns out, the uncles and aunties who guarded the trolleys did not "look at us very angry [sic] the whole time" and, quite the opposite, produced the elusive menu for us to peruse once we've exhausted the trolley options and have evidently passed the entrance exam.

The food, dear readers, are delicious. 

Bouncy, huge prawns encased in silky rice paper with a light, sweet soy drizzle. 

Not something often ordered by non-Chinese people (including seasoned yum cha attendees), and I suspect that's mainly because they don't look very appetizing. These are vegetables (some radishes, carrots and mushrooms, amongst other goodies) wrapped in bean curd sheets, and are moist, savoury and umami. 

Pork bun, beloved of all. I would say the version here is a little heavy on the dough (I like my pork buns filled to the brim with char-siu), but it is certainly very respectable nevertheless. ]

Siu mai - a delicious mixture of pork and prawns, topped with little bits of fish roe for that bit of crunch. 

Prawn dumplings, which gave rise to the most apt and hilarious food-related quote of the meal (a recounting from a Youtube reaction video, I believe): the dumpling skin should be like lingerie, just enough to see what's inside without giving everything away. Amen to that. 

Vegetable dumplings, just savoury and flavourful enough to not even need soy sauce - that's the mark of a truly good, well-seasoned dumpling. 

This is another dish not often ordered at yum cha (and something we were granted the honour of ordering straight off the elusive menu). This is basically dough-on-dough, and yet so much more than that. The you tiao (the friend dough in the middle) is a breakfast staple in my hometown of Shanghai, but also enjoyed in many other parts of China. What I love about the way it's cooked at Emperor's is that they have used shallot oil instead of regular oil, which makes it slightly salty and very fragrant. 

Raddish cake and taro cake - the texture is slightly gooey and may not be to everybody's liking, and the version here is very gently seasoned. I have had better elsewhere, but the one made at Emperor's Garden is respectable nevertheless. 

The BBQ pork (or char siu) is served slightly warm on a bed of peanuts. The flavour is really, relaly good: on the sweet side, and the meat is beautifully lean. I would say this rates as one of the top char siu in Sydney. 

Finally, mango pancake to finish the meal. Fresh mango pieces and whipped cream - what could go wrong? 

Score: 4/5
Cost: you will walk out groaning with satisfaction without parting very much with your coins. 
Address: 96-100 Hay St, Haymarket NSW