Saint Peter calls itself a "fish eatery". Somewhat surprisingly, it is nestled among the uber-trendy clothing and design shops along Oxford Street, Paddington. The decor is dark and cozy, not a sliver of nautical to be seen. Despite not looking like a typical fish place, Saint Peter has pretty much sat comfortably on the list of Sydney's best restaurants since it opened.
The menu requires explanation by the extremely helpful and knowledgeable staff. Fish plays a central role in every dish, including lots of fish species I had never heard of before (not that I pretend to be a big connoisseur). Wish a menu that changes daily, based on what the chef could find at the markets, you can never quite do enough prep work beforehand - so you might as well leave your fate to the wonderful staff.
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| Calamari, $28 |
I dare say we are all familiar with the golden, crunchy, almost-junk-food-like caalamari that one gets from a fish and chips shop. Saint Peter chooses to cook the calamari gently, so it maintains its fresh, sea-water savouriness as well as its tender texture.
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| Peppers, $18 |
Each staff member comforts us "these are very mild peppers...maybe one in ten has a bite". They were not wrong. The peppers are juicy, soft, pleasantly charred, and wonderful when dipped in a fishy sauce.
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| Bonito, $24 |
Paired with a sweet plum jus, the bonito sashimi is so delicately well-balanced I could fill up on it and still want more. The flesh is fatty and melty in the best sense of these words, the flavour is mild, making it a perfect vessel for the extra virgin olive oil and plum jelly goodness to really shine.
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| Charcuterie $32 |
The charcuterie board at Saint Peter is like no other - made up of four types of fish, cornichon and some serious mustard, this is like a grazing plate for Ariel (or perhaps Ariel wouldn't eat her friends...that makes more sense, actually...so grazing plate for Ursula?) Some of the cuts are extremely fishy and an acquired taste (just as stinky cheese would be). Those of us who aren't fish-fiends may consider skipping.
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| Yellow Eyed Mullet, $38 |
Harking back in the direction of fish and chips, this is the lightest, crumbliest batter I have ever had. The wonderful maldon salt flakes also hit exactly the right spot.
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| Garfish, $46 |
This is my favourite dish, hands down. Fresh, subtle, light, wonderfully balanced, this is exactly how one shows off the fish without overpowering such a delicate flesh. The vegetables are practically hopping off the plate with vitamins and flavour.
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| Asparagus, $16 |
Cooked to perfection, a side that definitely holds its own, even when held against such impressive mains.
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| Chocolate Slice, $18 |
The four of us shared this unusual dessert - it is made with fish fat, which one can certainly taste. While it gave the chocolate and caramel a depth, it also made it very heavy. It reminded me of taking fish oil capsules. I don't regret trying it, for it really is very unusual and special, but I probably wouldn't have it again.
Score: 4/5
Cost: $80pp, with one drink
Address: 362 Oxford St, Paddington
Website: https://www.saintpeter.com.au/
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