JPB Restaurant, Swisshotel

Usually, 5 star hotels come with exceptional restaurants attached - and unfortunately, the JPB restaurant falls very short - to the point I had to double check that the Swisshotel is indeed a 5 star hotel.

However, let me first give credit where credit is due: the service at JPB is superb. The staff were attentive and polite.

The decor, on the other hand, is awful - the noise of the Crossroad bar disrupts the dining experience, and I feel like I'm not dining in a hotel restaurant, but in the breakfast buffet hall (which is unsurprising because the JPB restaurant doubles as the breakfast hall in the morning, but the point is, if you can't transform the space completely for dinner, then dinner is going to seem like a disappointing, overpriced affair).

Is the food any good? I could forgive lack-lustre atmosphere for excellent food. Alas, the food was even more disappointing than the atmosphere.

Half dozen oysters, $24
Despite it being oyster season when I dined at the JPB restaurant, the oysters which were served were tiny. I understand that there are different species of oysters, and bigger doesn't necessarily mean better, but those weren't delicious either. I ordered the oysters three ways - natural, with finger lime, and with vinaigrette and onion. None of them stood out. Let's just say that had this been my very first experience of oyster, I wouldn't believe people who told me oysters were delicious.

Warrigal Risotto, $28

Simple and overly salty. The herbs were quite fresh, but one does not go to a 5 star hotel's restaurant for 'hey, at least it's fresh-tasting'.

Truffle pasta, $29

The seasonal pasta is truffle pasta, which also makes sense, because it was truffle season. The description also stated there would be asparagus. Instead, I got mushroom pasta with truffle oil, and there is a big difference between truffle oil and truffle. Again, this was so salty the food actually tasted bitter.

Barramundi with mashed peas, $33
Unlike the pasta and risotto, the fish is well cooked but poorly seasoned - it was extremely bland.

The prices actually aren't too bad compared to other 5 star hotel restaurants, but they are nonetheless overpriced. I would rather add another $10 to each dish for something of excellent quality, than pay what I did for the quality of food I got.

Score: 1.5/5 
Price: reasonable for 5 star hotel restaurants, but mismatched with the quality of food.
Address: 68 Market Street
Website: https://www.swissotel.com/hotels/sydney/dining/jpb-restaurant/


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