Mjolner

Thor's hammer certainly packs a punch. Probably one of the best dining experiences I've had in recent times, Mjolnir commits to the theme - but don't be fooled, this is no gimmicky restaurant where the wait staff plays dress up. The food and the drinks here mean business. 

The entry is unassuming, leading down to a large, cavernous basement that transports you straight to mythical times. 


Upon arrival, we are presented with a little shot of complimentary mead to whet the appetite. A sweet, moreish, fun number, it is nothing like the mead bought in bottle shops. 

Across the Fjord, $21

Come for the drinking-out-of-horns, stay for the cocktails. The cocktail list at Mjolner is impressive - and many come with a theatrical display. This one came in a cloudy beaker and tastes alcoholic yet floral and subtle, with a distinct nose of of fresh pine trees. 

Blazing Glogg, $23

This sweet, dark, boozy number came with a dramatic display of alcohol being pulled from one vessel to another, while flaming. The result is this rich, hot drink that immediately warms every part of your body. 

Venison tartare, $24

A particularly lean cut of meat, the venison tartare has a gently acidic taste punctuated by stewed blueberries a yogurt drops. The texture is lovely, but unlike the beef tartares I've had, there is no inclusion of a silky egg yolk - a very pure, meaty experience. I should have said, Mjolner is probably not for the vegetarian and vegan in your lives. 

Broccoli, $15

Which is not to say Mjolner can't do vegetable extremely, extremely well. Who would have known that a seemingly simple dish of broccoli could almost reduce me to happy tears? Some magic was worked here because the broccoli is perfectly salted and cooked until it is crunchy on the outside, melty inside. 

Bone marrow, $27, + $15pp for Highland Park 12 yo shot

Bone marrow is a must-have at Mjolner. Some may struggle with the fatty texture of the marrow (it really is like eating pure fat!) but the optional extra takes this dish from good to extraordinary. Once you have scraped every last drop of marrow from the bones, the staff takes a blow torch to that which remains to melt the fat and warm up the bone. Then you are to hold the bone to your mouth while a shot of Highland Park 12 yo whisky is poured down the bone straight into your waiting mouth, incorporating the oiliness and saltiness. The whisky is quite smooth, so no need to worry about choking on a peaty one, and the additional fat, and salt, somehow mellows the whisky into an increadible one-gulp experience that's gone too quickly, but leaves such an impression. Highly recommend you do not say no when offered. 

Pork Belly, $44

Perfectly cooked, and served with pickled slaw and crispy kale chips, the pork belly is a little fatty for my personal taste but for someone who loves a heaty feed, it is probably one of the most satisfying pork bellies around. 

Short rib, $72

How can this piece of rib be worth $72, you may ask? Oh, but it is. The meat literally falls off the bones. Barely any chewing is required. As horrific as the price tag may seem for a relatively small piece of meat, it is worth every single cent. I would go back just for the ribs. 

In a rather uncharacteristic move, I did not opt for dessert on this occasion - we were way too full. Which can only mean that I'm already looking forward to my next visit. 

Score: 5/5

Price: $150pp

Address: 267 Cleveland St, Redfern

Websitehttps://mjolner.com.au/sydney

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