If you were to ask me where is my favourite CBD happy place for a quick escape, Hubert would be my immediate response. When I push open these heavy, huge doors and descend the dimly lit staircase with walls of little alcohol bottles (as though one were descending into a wizard's den), I feel the rest of Sydney - work, stress, relationship drama, the endless to-do lists - fade away.
To me, Hubert is an escape. It's where I'm comfortable enough to order drinks off menu, watching the candles burn slowly, while listening to the house jazz band play. The conversation there are always in low murmurs - all that is to say, Hubert is one of those places where escapism is easy.
Having introduced my happy place to my brother, he was appropriately excited when I suggested that I took the family there for his birthday.
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Half dozen oysters, $36
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As one would expect, the oysters supplied to Hubert is fresh and plump. The real winner and that which makes enjoying oysters at Hubert more worthwhile than at the fish market is the vinaigrette. Light, tangy, subtle, it's just enough to flavour the oysters without taking away the natural sweetness.
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| Escargot, $29 |
How can one go to a French restaurant and not order escargot? If I were to recommend a single dish at Hubert, this would be it. The best part is that it comes with Hubert's deliciously chewy, fluffy bread, so you can mop up every last drop of the fragrant, garlicky sauce.
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| Souffle, $30 |
The beautifully airy, fluffy, savoury cheese souffle is a feat in skill and culinary control. Is it the most exciting thing on the menu? No. However, it is typical of what Hubert is known for: traditional fare, done perfectly.
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| Parisienne Gnocchi, $25 |
Recommended by the helpful, professional waiter, the gnocchi seems deceptively plain - with some petit pois, some asparagus, and a crispy disc of mozerella, what I enjoyed about it is its perfect texture: beautifully cookde to pillowy softness, and then lightly pan fried so the outside is crispy.
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| Bavette Steak, $52 |
The bavette steak is made with a rather lean piece of meat, which ordinarily would lend itself to toughness, but of course, at Hubert, one need not worry. Gorgeously medium-rare, the meat issatisfying in its texture and the richness of flavour. I am of the view that when going to a high-end restaurant, one should always order the "lower end" cuts of meat, because only these restaurants know exactly what to do with them. On the other hand, any person with reasonable culinary skills could do a respectable filet mignon because the meat would (and should be allowed to) speak for itself.
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| Duck a l'orange, $65 |
Another typical, rustic French dish, done respectably, and yet, when looking back, I don't think it was particularly memorable. I just recall it being done very well. Perhaps pick the steak when given a choice.
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| Pommes Anna, $16 |
A side dish only these sorts of restaurants could casually whip up, these beautifully layered and crispy potatoes are a must order at Hubert, and great bang for bucks. This is the kind of dishes that showcases the skill and technique of the chef.
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| Kimchi gratin, $15 |
A surprisingly modern, fusion dish in a traditional menu, the kimchi gratin was absolutely delicious, especially when paired with the steak or the duck. Very salty and flavourful, it packs a punch (not in terms of heat, just in terms of flavour) and I highly recommend ordering it as a side.
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| Mille-feuille, $26 |
Last but not least, the lovely, dainty, delicate mille-feuille, filled with berries and sweetened cream between layers of paper-thin pastry. A beautiful way to end a coma-inducingly indulgent meal.
Score: 4.5 /5
Cost: $100 pp for food, plus drinks
Address: 15 Bligh St, Sydney
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