Monopole

From the excellent folks who also brought you Yellow, Cirrus (a delightful seafood-focused restaurant) and Bentley (stayed tuned for an upcoming review), Monopole is a darkly cosy eatery with a lightly art deco feel. The open kitchen allows you to look at the hustling and bustling, yet the space still feels quiet and intimate somehow.

House Cured Meat

Every review I have read about Monopole raves about the house cured meat. A platter consists of Ranger's Valley brisket pastrami, smoked pork belly, Berkshire pork neck and Cape Grim beef tongue - all of which are delicious, but the smoked pork belly is a rich, fatty stand out.

Kobe Beef Shoulder Lip

The real star, however, is this wonderful plate of delicious morsels. Monopole is one of the very few places in Australia where you can find this top grade meat - and the way it disintegrates upon contact with one's tonngue, leaving a salty, satisfying, oily residue, is pure magic. I would go back just for this dish alone.

Potato + Seaweed Butter + Charred Lemon

This dish may sound and look plain, but plain it is not. I had not appreciated that one could cook potato in such a creative way, making it the perfect vessel for seaweed's umami.

Ham Hock + Duck Terrine + Pickles 

If you are an adventurous eater and not put off by the "little bit of everything" that is terrine, this is a beautifully executed terrine - rich, earthy, a range of interesting textures, partnered with tart and crunchy pickles that washes the oiliness from one's palate.

300g Scotch Fillet + Tarragon Butter + Leek (+ truffle)

 The Scotch Fillet comes with an option for a shaving of truffle - though I must say, this is the only mildly disappointing aspect of the meal. The truffle barely added anything (except additional cost) to the dish. The leek is cooked wonderfully, giving it a sweet, smoky flavour, but unless you had a real hankering for steak, I would exchange this dish for some of Monopole's more interesting creations.

Duck Breast + Beetroot + Cherry Wood Oil 

This is very well-executed, particularly the beetroot. I find that Monopole executes its vegetables better than its meat - the meat is simply pleasant, but the vegetables are downnright delightful.

Bergamot + Citrus Curd + Buckwheat

Buttermilk + Coconut + Brioche + Black Lime 

Passion Fruit + Sour Cream + White Chocolate 

All three dessert options at Monopole are absolutely incredible - all are ice-cream based, but each with distinct and creative flavour pairings, and with such interesting textures that play with your expectations. These dishes are so much more than your ordinary icy treats - though my favourite has got to be Buttermilk + Coconut + Brioche + Black Lime - the ice cream itself has the texture of rice pudding (but where you would expect a "bite", it melts) and the brioche is very satisfying.

Score: 4/5 
Cost: $100pp
Address: 71A Macleay Street, Potts Point
Website: https://www.monopolesydney.com.au/