I have wanted to visit Hubert since it held the top spot on Sydney's culinary scene a couple of years ago - and it's only taken me until now to finally do it. One reason it has taken me so long is that for a long time, Hubert didn't take bookings - so you could push open its door, wind down the gorgeous, dark staircase admiring its collection of vintage alcohol bottles behind cabinets, only to be told that it is at least another two hour wait to be seated.
One reason for Hubert's enduring popularity, I suspect, is the fact that the minute you step through its doors, it is as though you are transported to a different world, far away from the hustle and bustle of Sydney's legal quarters, a safe haven for all these who want to comfort their weary souls with some fine French dining.
The world presented by Hubert is dark, intimate, lit by candlelight - thus you will have to forgive the photo quality here (not that my photos were ever very good).
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| Hubert baguette and duck pate |
In Sydney, we are spoilt by a wide range of food from a diverse range of cultures - as long as you know where to look, you can easily find pretty authentic versions of nearly everything...that is, except baguette. I am yet to find baguette in Sydney that is as good as the ones I've had in Paris, but those served at Hubert comes pretty damn close. Its butter retained a slight sourness, and is pleasantly salty - there is no mistaking the satisfyingly high fat content - making this a luxurious spread. The pate is smooth while retaining the signature metallic taste of duck liver. The thin strip of jelly is maple syrup flavoured, ,melting with the slightest contact with the tongue and balancing the saltiness of the liver to perfection.
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| Le Grande Aioli |
A throwback to the seventies, when prawn cocktails were a thing. The star of the piece is the Clarence prawns - bouncy, fresh, clean-tasting; dipping in a thick, creamy aioli. The seasonal vegetables are simply blanched. I thought the least of this dish, as it can be easily replicated anywhere - as long as, of course, you stick to high quality ingredients.
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| Breasaola |
As one would expect a high quality bresaola to be.
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| Prime Beef Tartare |
The beef tartare at Hubert is made from wagyu topside, which makes this a soft, melty dish that still retains a slight bit of chew. The egg yolk is creamy and bright, speaking to the freshness of the egg. And, as one would expect, it is seasoned to perfection. Raw meat had never tasted so good.
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| Escargot XO |
There aren't a lot of places in Sydney (or anywhere else, for that matter) that you can eat escargot. A quintessentially French dish, a good escargot (as the one served at Hubert) is bouncy, chewy, without any unpleasant gamey-ness. I think this dish could be saltier, but as it is, I am quite satisfied.
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| Pumpkin and chestnut |
A delightful, savoury twist on the mont blanc, the bottom of this dish is pumpkin, and the top very thinly piped chestnut. The sweetness of the pumpkin perfectly compliments the sweetness from the chestnut - and yet, the dish is still refreshingly savoury! Wonderful.
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| Chicken Fricassée |
Another quintessentially French provincial dish, the chicken fricassee is so juicy in its puddle of bread sauce and green garlic oil, it practically defines comfort food. It's the kind of dish you can picture a family sitting around to enjoy on a Sunday evening. Both the dark and white meats were succulent and flavourful, without too much fuss. The seemingly simple dishes often showcases real skills.
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| Salade |
I repeat my previous comment - the simplest dishes showcase real skills. This is a salad of red velvet lettuce and soft herbs with a caper vinaigrette dressing - with each leaf so perfectly coated and tossed.
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| Pomme Anna |
Butter and potatoes - that's it. The sheer skill of the chef in creaking little chunks of paper-thin potatoes that are creamy inside, crunchy outside! Though an accompaniment, I have to say, this is perhaps my favourite dish of the evneing - sometimes the most unexpected players steal the show.
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| Crème Caramel |
And we finish with a creme caramel - a sturdy, eggy custard sitting prettily in a pool of bitter caramel sauce. The biterness of the sauce - giving the dish a slightly burnt flavour - is the perfect end to a very satisfying French meal.
Score: 4.5/5
Hubert is simple French country cooking - hearty and comforting. Nothing was spectacular or surprising (as modern Scandi cooking can be), but everything is perfectly executed and delicious. Oh, and the wine menu is impressive.
Cost: Approx $125pp.
Address: 15 Bligh St, Sydney NSW 2000
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