Don Peppino's

Faux-marble stairs? Tick. Tacky interior? Tick. A disturbing photo of Tupac staring down at you in the toilet? Tick.

From the ashes (not literal ashes) of a 90s club rises Don Peppino's, one of the most exciting pop up restaurants in Sydney, with a menu that changes on a daily basis. Don't be fooled into believing this restaurant-in-an-ex-club thing is a bit of a gimmick: the food is the real name of the game here, even though the sickly colour-shifting neon lights are a definite draw card. Because the menu changes every day, the freshness of the ingredients are guaranteed, and you are always pleasantly surprised by the home-style, yet creative dishes that get served up from night to night.

Piled high on the corner of the counter are garlic bread - none of that generic pizza-shop stuff, thank you very much. The garlic bread at Don Peppino's is soft, fluffy, melty goodness.

Garlic Bread, $4

Look at all that butter and garlic melting into the pores of a very beautifully-risen bread!

Sardine toast, $5

If you were feeling a little brave, you could go fr the sardine toast - the salty, fishy taste might not be everyone's cup of tea (and as it turned out, it wasn't mine either), but I nonetheless appreciated the quality of the toast and the whipped butter.

Fagioli, $10

One would have thought that a plate of cooked green beans is the least exciting thing out there - but no. Cooked in a tomato paste until soft, I was surprised by how flavourful the beans are.

Proscuitto, melon, $16

Normally I don't go for what I call "assembly food" at restaurants - by that I mean, things which are simply put together that I feel like I can make myself: in fact, it appears to me that all that's required for such a dish is going to the shops, which is definitely a skill I have honed to perfection.

The freshness of the proscuitto, however, made me eat my words - they are slice right before our eyes with each order, and as a result they are the most beautiful melty softness. The melon is so sweet and perfectly ripe, and the addition of a balsamic glaze really was the cherry on top.

Pasta Fagioli, $21

Fagioli, apart from being served as a primi, also appears as a secondi (they must have been in season!) The pasta is cooked to al dente perfection, thought I prefer my pasta just a tad on the softer side. The flavour is clean, unfussy, simple.

Tonnarelli Gamberi, $25

Oh. Yes. Prawns. Pasta. The tomato base is only gently acidic, and there were quite a generous splattering of prawns. The pasta is just how I like it - juuuust a tad above al tende, so there is no real bite to the pasta, just smooth, soft, comfort.

Pork Cotoletta, $32

When they call something a "main", they ain't kidding. When the dish was first presented (enough to share between 3-4 people, easily!) I was a tad worried: I mean, I could have just gotten some pork parmi elsewhere. But no. The pork here is special: it is absolutely juicy and encased in the most crunchy crust - the sharp contrast is most welcome. The pickles on the side are necessary to cut through the grease and refresh the palate.

Cabbage, $10

As a side dish, this is pretty great: smokey, soft, tender.

Rockmelon sorbet, $9

With groaning stomach we come to the dessert portion of the night: and were immediately impressed by the way the rockmelon sorbet is served: in rockmelon skin! The texture is like snow, and the flavours so fresh and gorgeous it was like tasting a rockmelon at the peak of ripeness - only better.

Panna cotta, $11

I have never been a real fan of panna cotta - I mean, I would eat one, and I could enjoy it - but I'm usually never the one to order the stiff, weirdly gelatinous sweet stuff if there were other things on offer., The panna cotta at Don Peppino's completely changed my mind: first, it was totally soft, almost melted-looking. But then I realise, that's what panna cotta is supposed to be like, not unnaturally rigid. Paried with a red wine reduction, the panna cotta is creamy and oh-so-satisfying.

Peach, zabaglione cream, $11

Fancy peach melba. Rich, decadent, perfect.

Oh, and in case you were trying to picture Tupac staring at you while you do your business, here's a photo and you're all welcome.

Score: 4.5/5
Price: approx $60-$80pp
Address: 1 Oxford St, Paddington
Website: donpeppinos.com.au