Automata
I have been putting off writing about Automata because I needed to expand my vocabulary beyond "amazing", "delicious" and "highly recommended" without veering into territories I refuse to enter (think "scrumptious" and "yummy") or - but I can put it off no longer. With an ever changing tasting menu, Automata waits for no food review.
Flaky, light, savoury pastry and squid-ink puffs filled with cream cheese are the perfect morsels to whet the appetite - the contrast in texture prepares us for the menu to come.
The main event of the evening begins with a white radish and fennel puree topped with sand crab and fermented chili sauce. The fermented chili sauce bears a distinct similarity with kimchi, and it works surprisingly well with the creamy, light sauce. The sand crab meat is delicate and sweet.
This, my friends, is raw kangaroo. Though the concept may seem a little intimidating at first, any feared "raw meat" or "at the butchers" feel I might have imagined this dish may risk is completely eliminated by the freshness of the meat and the pairing of it with koji cream and wakame glazed in a soy sauce. Crisp black rice adds some interesting crunch to the dish to combat any "mushiness" - what I'm trying to say is that this kangaroo tartare was absolutely wonderful and balanced.
For the less culinarily adventurous, Automata offers kingfish sashimi as an alternative. The fish is fatty, fresh and delicate. You can't really go wrong with either option.
Although this is a strange thing to say, the highlight of the evening for me was the complimentary bread course. To be more precise, it's the chicken & anchovy jus-whipped butter. Almost like a silky, spreadable chicken soup, it is pure genius. I have since spoken to a couple of people who have been to Automata and this butter is the first thing they rave about. I would re-visit Automata just for the butter alone!
This is steamed dhufish with green garlic, romanesco, sour cucumber and sea blite. Of the five main ingredients, I had to look up three. The dhufish is a slightly firm white-fleshed fish that takes on flavours very well. The sour cucumber bears a slight resemblance to Asian preserved vegetables - but at Automata the fermented flavours are more delicate - and despite not being a huge fish fan, I thoroughly enjoyed the dish.
The meat dish of the evening is a black angus tri-tip served with burnt onion mustard, fermented pumpkin and pepitas. The tri tip is not a cut of meat I have seen very often - as the name suggests, it's the triangular tip of the loin. Though not the most expensive cut, the tri tip is known for its lower fat content and full flavour. Cooked to perfection, the joy of this dish doesn't lie in the usual fat-bursting-in-mouth wagyu experience nor the fall-off-the-bones experience of slow-cooked beef; rather this is a dish that reminds you that you are, in fact, eating meat. By this I mean there is a slight chew to the meat that is very satisfying.
The dessert was also a highlight for me - a black pepper ice cream with custard apple, granny smith and topped with an almond crisp. The unusual flavour immediately caught my attention - it is so beautiful and smooth, yet so distinctively peppery. At no point does the pepper flavour become overwhelming, but with each mouthful it seems to get ever more intense. One of the best ice cream experiences I have ever had.
Score: 4.5 / 5
Cost: $95 for 5 courses (reviewed here), or $125 for 7. The 7 course meal comes with the addition of a shitake pasta with fresh truffle, and mandarin curb with black sesame. I consider the 5 course degustation one of the most value-for-money Sydney has to offer.
Address: 5 Kensington St, Chippendale
Website: https://www.automata.com.au/
Flaky, light, savoury pastry and squid-ink puffs filled with cream cheese are the perfect morsels to whet the appetite - the contrast in texture prepares us for the menu to come.
The main event of the evening begins with a white radish and fennel puree topped with sand crab and fermented chili sauce. The fermented chili sauce bears a distinct similarity with kimchi, and it works surprisingly well with the creamy, light sauce. The sand crab meat is delicate and sweet.
This, my friends, is raw kangaroo. Though the concept may seem a little intimidating at first, any feared "raw meat" or "at the butchers" feel I might have imagined this dish may risk is completely eliminated by the freshness of the meat and the pairing of it with koji cream and wakame glazed in a soy sauce. Crisp black rice adds some interesting crunch to the dish to combat any "mushiness" - what I'm trying to say is that this kangaroo tartare was absolutely wonderful and balanced.
For the less culinarily adventurous, Automata offers kingfish sashimi as an alternative. The fish is fatty, fresh and delicate. You can't really go wrong with either option.
Although this is a strange thing to say, the highlight of the evening for me was the complimentary bread course. To be more precise, it's the chicken & anchovy jus-whipped butter. Almost like a silky, spreadable chicken soup, it is pure genius. I have since spoken to a couple of people who have been to Automata and this butter is the first thing they rave about. I would re-visit Automata just for the butter alone!
This is steamed dhufish with green garlic, romanesco, sour cucumber and sea blite. Of the five main ingredients, I had to look up three. The dhufish is a slightly firm white-fleshed fish that takes on flavours very well. The sour cucumber bears a slight resemblance to Asian preserved vegetables - but at Automata the fermented flavours are more delicate - and despite not being a huge fish fan, I thoroughly enjoyed the dish.
The meat dish of the evening is a black angus tri-tip served with burnt onion mustard, fermented pumpkin and pepitas. The tri tip is not a cut of meat I have seen very often - as the name suggests, it's the triangular tip of the loin. Though not the most expensive cut, the tri tip is known for its lower fat content and full flavour. Cooked to perfection, the joy of this dish doesn't lie in the usual fat-bursting-in-mouth wagyu experience nor the fall-off-the-bones experience of slow-cooked beef; rather this is a dish that reminds you that you are, in fact, eating meat. By this I mean there is a slight chew to the meat that is very satisfying.
The dessert was also a highlight for me - a black pepper ice cream with custard apple, granny smith and topped with an almond crisp. The unusual flavour immediately caught my attention - it is so beautiful and smooth, yet so distinctively peppery. At no point does the pepper flavour become overwhelming, but with each mouthful it seems to get ever more intense. One of the best ice cream experiences I have ever had.
Score: 4.5 / 5
Cost: $95 for 5 courses (reviewed here), or $125 for 7. The 7 course meal comes with the addition of a shitake pasta with fresh truffle, and mandarin curb with black sesame. I consider the 5 course degustation one of the most value-for-money Sydney has to offer.
Address: 5 Kensington St, Chippendale
Website: https://www.automata.com.au/
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