Muum Maam Barangaroo

Muum Maam means "little glutton" in Thai, which is a rather fitting name for a casual restaurant serving up delicious, classic Thai dishes. There are two venues in Sydney - the original in Surry Hills, and the 2016 opening of the Barangaroo branch. The food at the Barangaroo venue is amazing - and I'm sure the food would be just as good, if not even better, at Surry Hills. The atmosphere at Barangaroo, however, is a little too noisy and crowded for my liking - in fact one can barely navigate between the closely-packed tables, as the venue is more of an al fresco dining area than a proper restaurant; but hey - some people might find that charming and adds to the experience.

The best way to experience all that Muum Maam has to offer is to go for one of their set menus, which are of excellent value, and will have you groaning with satisfaction by the end.

Moreton bay bug betel leaf
The first thing that arrives with the set menu is  an amuse-bouche: packed full of flavour - peanut, lime, toasted coconut and a touch of chili - the tender Moreton bay bug is served on a bed of betel leaf, which has a rather paper-like texture. The leaf doesn't really add to the flavour of the dish, and personally I don't find the texture that appealing, but it's all part of the authentic Thai dining experience and the flavour of the filling more than makes up for the rather papery vessel it is served on.

Barramundi spring rolls
Spring rolls are the boring staple of Asian food, and honestly, I have always been suspicious of them - spring roll is the mark of an overly Westernised Chinese restaurant, after all. The spring rolls at Muum Maam, however, completely changed my mind about them, because the filling is so unusual - green curry barramundi, sweet corn and basil, the fish has a lovely soft texture that contrasts beautifully with the crispy fried wonton skin it is enrobed in.

Shredded banana blossom salad w prawns
Banana blossom salad is one of my favourite things about Thai food - it has such a surprising flavour! When I think of edible blossoms, my mind automatically goes to a courgette flower - soft, whispy, stuffed - or the dainty, pretty things which are more decoration than food. Banana blossom is nothing like that. It is hearty, with a texture akin to a carrot, and takes on whatever flavour it is mixed with beautifully. At Muum Maam, this means cashews, coriander and coconut chilli jam. There are also generous servings of large, juicy tiger prawns in the salad, which makes it a hugely satisfying dish.

Pad Thai with prawns
Good old Pad Thai, beautifully flavoured, chewy noodles, generous serving of prawns. Cannot be faulted.

Northern style crispy egg noodles w slow cooked beef cheek curry
You have to eat this dish fast to enjoy the full wonders of it - the noodles are crispy but soon becomes soft and chewy when immersed in the curry, which doesn't take away from its deliciousness at all - but if a dish is meant to be crispy, you might as well enjoy it while it is crispy, right? The curry is so mild and rich, the beef cheeks so melt-in-your-mouth - a perfect accompaniment to jasmine rice.

Asian greens, shitake mushroom, garlic & oyster sauce
This is more of a filler dish - but vegetables are important, so I'm glad it's part of the menu!

Crying Tiger
Crying Tiger is yet another classic Thai dish which I love - beautiful, succulent beef in a gorgeously moreish tamarind sauce - Muum Maam's version is easily one of the best I've had.

Crispy pork belly
There are so many other excellent things on the menu that the pork belly - which is usually one of the more popular and most loved dishes - didn't particularly stand out. The flavour of this dish is on point, but I like my pork belly melt-in-your-mouth, whereas this one was a little chewy. Each to their own.

Duck curry
Another hearty curry dish with a lovely leg of duck, potatoes and green beans - though it is a little similar to the beef cheek curry, and between the two, I prefer the beef cheek curry.

Pandan sorbet
Hand down the most beautiful-looking desserts I've had at an Asian restaurant, these pandan sorbets are so creamy I cannot believe they have no dairy in them! The pandan flavour is soft and gentle, which balances the coconut crumble beautifully, and the drizzle of hazelnut and pal sugar sauce makes this dessert one amazing experience, and an excellent note on which to end the meal.

Score: 5/5
The slightly crowded atmosphere aside, the food cannot be faulted. I highly recommend it.
Cost: lunch set menus at $35pp, dinner set menus are at $55pp or $65pp. Excellent value.
Address: 23 Barangaroo Vanue, Barangaroo
Website: https://www.muummaam.com.au/barangaroo/

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