Gogyo

Gogyo received quite a bit of hype even before it opened in Sydney. Owned by the same company behind Ippudo, Gogyo also has a few branches in Japan and one in Hong Kong. I know some people like Ippudo, but in my view, it barely makes top 10 of ramens in Sydney, so being Ippudo's sister restaurant, per se, didn't make me excited at all.

What did pique my interest is Gogyo's signature dish: ramen in "burnt" broth, which adds a smokey depth to the broth. That was something I just had to try.

Unlike most ramen restaurants, Gogyo's atmosphere is suitable for dates and more formalised catch-ups - it has a much more 'dine in' feel than your usual hole in the wall, cheap eat ramen restaurants. Gogyo also boasts a decent wine, cocktail and sake list. The prices, of course, reflect the more up-market nature of the joint.

Rock Potatoes 

This tiny dish is proof that good things come in small packages. Rock potatoes are slightly smashed whole tiny potatoes baked to perfection, and drenched in a magical kombu kelp aioli and chives. The potatoes are perfectly cooked, creamy inside and crunchy outside. Much, much better than your regular ol' chips.

Vegetable ramen

 This ramen, unlike the other choices on the menu, is incredibly light - I would even venture as far as to call it bland, but it sure tastes virtuous. The karagge-like chunks in topping the noodle are mushrooms. The broth is clear and gently sweet. I'm personally not a fan.

Japanese coleslaw and Fish Bowl

This is Gogyo's version of gluten free meal. The coleslaw looks downright depressing; but the fish bowl looks absolutely delightful. The rice is warm, and the fish is fresh. The slightly pickled cucumber adds texture and crunch.

Burnt miso ramen

Finally, the star of the show. I have read the broth being described as "buttery" and "smooth", but I must admit I was slightly disappointed by the burnt miso ramen. It certainly is hugely different from every other ramen I have ever tried, but I don't think it comes even close to replacing my old favourites at Gumshara, Manpuku and Menya, for example. The taste of burnt miso is slightly bitter, and the soup is extremely oily - I'm talking a thick layer of oil floating atop kind of oily, the kind of oily that makes you not want to drink the broth. The toppings I also found lacklustre. The half boiled egg is not as smooth as the one at Gumshara and the charsiu not as buttery as the one at Menya. The only saving grace is the noodle - beautifully cooked, slightly chewy - but then again, not as impressive as the one at Manpuku.

Mango Bogo

Moving onto my favourite part of the meal: dessert. The mango bogo is a slightly savoury, very South-East Asian style mousse / pudding topped with fresh mango pieces and the richest, most beautiful coconut ice-cream I have ever tasted. I would not re-order this dish, but I sure would like to know where / how they got that ball of coconutty delight.

Taiyaki

This is the only dish that pleased me on every aspect: taste, presentation and value for money. The fish is filled to the brim with your filling of choice: nutella or red bean. We chose the more traditional, red bean option, and we were not disappointed. Despite not being a fan of red bean myself, I would happily go back and eat another one of these babies: smooth, rich, yet not overly sweet. Paired with a scoop of rich, nutty, roasted seed ice cream, this dessert is heaven on (two) plates.

Score: 3/5 
Definitely worth a first visit. A second visit? Less so.
Cost: pricey for ramen. The ramen ranged between $17-$19; when I have had better ramen for around $13. I got the distinct feeling that I was paying for the nice atmosphere - but of course, such restaurants have their place.
Address: 52-54 Albion St, Surry Hills