GOOD FOOD MONTH 2017 Firedoor Basque Brunch
They call it a brunch, but it's at 12:30 and involves 4 flaming courses. That, in my books, is lunch, and no amount of mimosa would change that. In any case, mimosa was not on the menu. The meal that came, however, was an interesting experience. I don't quite know how to classify it meal-wise. The four course experience started with breakfast food; then went into cocktail hour; back to lunch food; and finally taking up to afternoon tea. Before we get there, let's talk about booze.
A lack of mimosa is no issue when something better is offered. A marmalade martini, for instance. Stirred, not shaken. It is beautifully fresh, tart and boozy.
The other drinks didn't look half as good, I must say - especially their version of bloody Mary. I observed them pouring out several glasses from a litre jug. A LITRE JUG. I will just let that sink in for a moment.
Cocktails served in bulk is an affront to my sensibilities.
The first course is breakfast fare done right. Buffalo berries is served with grilled berries - it is a light, almost watery yogurt, and the grilled berries veer towards the sweet side. House fruit toast is dense and thankfully not overly sweet, served with smoked butter (though I couldn't taste any smokiness). The star of the show is a Hawkesbury honeycomb, oozing golden liquid.
The second course is a selection of antipasto.
The Gilda is a classic snack from Spain's Basque region. The classical recipe involves pickled guindilla peppers, green olives and white anchovies on a toothpick. The version served up at Firedoor is quite clever - a jalapeno impaling a Spanish olive; with anchovies wrapped around the olive.
The grilled eggplant with chilli and salsa verde has the firmness of artichoke.
Pan con tomate involves soft crushed tomato smeared on grilled bread, and it tastes exactly as one would imagine.
The description of the mussels dish as 'mussels, escabeche' is slightly odd as escabeche is the name of a number of dishes in the Mediterranean. It usually means a dish of fish marinated and cooked in an acidic mixture coloured with saffron or pimenton. The dish had a slightly tinned feel to it - not to say that it tasted artificial or bad in any way; just that this course seems to focus on quick bites that one would enjoy as a snack and usually not cooked on the spot; cocktail food if you will.
The third course is a colourful array of hot food one would associate with lunch.
The tortilla is an oozy potato-filled omlette topped with a piece of grilled pepper. It smelled and tasted absolutely delicious - warm, buttery, savoury. Unfortunately, however, one dining companion found a hair inside her food; which rather dampened the spirit.
Firm and very salty, the chorizo is not as smokey as I would have expected. however, it is a highly satisfying dish for the meat lovers among us. The piperade was delicious with the chewy, pillowy bread that came with the course.
Aren't mushrooms wonderful? They have that slightly meaty texture combined with an umami taste. Simply tossed with spinach, it complimented the chorizo very well.
The final course is a woodfired cheesecake that doesn't taste woodfired at all. The accompanying lemon curd stands out for its refreshing tartness, but it' difficult to get overly excited about a cheesecake. A surprising end to the meal, I suppose, because I often associate cheesecake with an informal afternoon tea or morning tea, rather than as the end to a meal.
Score: 3/5
The food are all lovely, but given the event is advertised as a 'fire powered brunch', there is very little smokiness or fire in the flavours. Also, the food is produce-driven rather than skill driven. There were distinct portions of the meal where I felt like if I went to an expensive grocer I could have replicated the meal at home.
The real problem with this event was the service. The staff appeared untrained and ignorant about what they were serving. They plonked down dishes unceremoniously, and were unable to answer some simple questions we had about what the food is. In addition, they were quite chaotic with the order of food being served. For example, it was obvious from the balance of flavours that the third course dishes were supposed to come at once - but there was some confusion between the staff as to what has been served when.
Also - the hair.
Another personal pet peeve of mine at a sit-down, non-cheap restaurant is presumption. I don't mind it when a cheap-eats restaurant does this, but I am rather dismayed when a "leading restaurant" (their words, not mine) plonks down the bill without being asked; and I hate it even more when they go ahead and put a credit card surcharge right on bill without finding out method of payment. In fact, that was an entirely new experience for me - of course many places charge a surcharge on credit card; but I have just never seen a restaurant do it right on the bill. What are they proposing to do if the patrons wanted to pay cash? Most people would be too embarrassed to ask for that surcharge to be removed, or they may not have noticed - in which case it's a pretty sneaky way to earn a few extra bucks.
Cost: $65pp excluding drinks and surcharge
Address: 23-33 Mary St, Surry Hills
Website: https://www.firedoor.com.au/
A lack of mimosa is no issue when something better is offered. A marmalade martini, for instance. Stirred, not shaken. It is beautifully fresh, tart and boozy.
 |
| Marmalade martini, $17 |
Cocktails served in bulk is an affront to my sensibilities.
 |
| First Course |
The second course is a selection of antipasto.
 |
| Pan con tomate; gildas; eggplant, chilli, salsa verde |
The Gilda is a classic snack from Spain's Basque region. The classical recipe involves pickled guindilla peppers, green olives and white anchovies on a toothpick. The version served up at Firedoor is quite clever - a jalapeno impaling a Spanish olive; with anchovies wrapped around the olive.
The grilled eggplant with chilli and salsa verde has the firmness of artichoke.
Pan con tomate involves soft crushed tomato smeared on grilled bread, and it tastes exactly as one would imagine.
 |
| mussels, escabeche; 12 months aged manchego; pata negra jaon iberico |
The third course is a colourful array of hot food one would associate with lunch.
 |
| ash baked tortilla |
 |
| Chorizo, piperade |
 |
| Mushrooms & spniach |
 |
| woodfired cheesecake |
Score: 3/5
The food are all lovely, but given the event is advertised as a 'fire powered brunch', there is very little smokiness or fire in the flavours. Also, the food is produce-driven rather than skill driven. There were distinct portions of the meal where I felt like if I went to an expensive grocer I could have replicated the meal at home.
The real problem with this event was the service. The staff appeared untrained and ignorant about what they were serving. They plonked down dishes unceremoniously, and were unable to answer some simple questions we had about what the food is. In addition, they were quite chaotic with the order of food being served. For example, it was obvious from the balance of flavours that the third course dishes were supposed to come at once - but there was some confusion between the staff as to what has been served when.
Also - the hair.
Another personal pet peeve of mine at a sit-down, non-cheap restaurant is presumption. I don't mind it when a cheap-eats restaurant does this, but I am rather dismayed when a "leading restaurant" (their words, not mine) plonks down the bill without being asked; and I hate it even more when they go ahead and put a credit card surcharge right on bill without finding out method of payment. In fact, that was an entirely new experience for me - of course many places charge a surcharge on credit card; but I have just never seen a restaurant do it right on the bill. What are they proposing to do if the patrons wanted to pay cash? Most people would be too embarrassed to ask for that surcharge to be removed, or they may not have noticed - in which case it's a pretty sneaky way to earn a few extra bucks.
Cost: $65pp excluding drinks and surcharge
Address: 23-33 Mary St, Surry Hills
Website: https://www.firedoor.com.au/
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